British cheeses are undergoing a renaissance, with producers like Jonny Crickmore leading the charge, as the demand for diverse and innovative flavours grows among consumers.
The Rise of British Cheeses: From Tradition to Innovation
Cheese, a beloved staple of many diets around the world, has seen an impressive evolution, particularly in the culinary landscape of the United Kingdom. While the French have long celebrated their rich and diverse cheese culture, showcasing over 1,000 varieties at markets such as the renowned Victor Hugo Market in Toulouse, the British are gradually cultivating their own cheese renaissance.
Unlike France, where cheese shopping is a deeply immersive experience with consumers engaging in detailed discussions with market traders and fellow shoppers, the UK traditionally confined its cheese selection to the familiar Cheddar, Edam, and Red Leicester. This culinary modesty is changing as British consumers develop an appetite for stronger, stinkier, and softer cheeses.
Jonny Crickmore of Fen Farm Dairy near Bungay has been at the forefront of this movement. Often regarded as the unofficial ambassador of British cheese, Crickmore’s creation, the Baron Bigod—a raw milk Brie-type cheese—has earned acclaim in Michelin-starred restaurants and gained both national and international fame since its debut in 2013.
Crickmore’s success demonstrates that British cheese does not have to be ‘boring,’ as he earlier described the historical state of the country’s cheese offerings. The expanding palate of the British consumer, now favouring varieties such as Camembert, Epoisses, Halloumi, and Gorgonzola—largely of foreign origin—raises the question of why local cheesemakers seldom explore beyond traditional English styles.
In Norfolk, despite having several talented cheesemakers, local cheeses have struggled to gain recognition beyond regional borders. This lack of wider appeal may stem from a conservative approach to production, with Norfolk cheeses often sticking to traditional styles rather than embracing the more daring varieties that modern consumers are seeking.
Though Norfolk has yet to achieve the acclaim of Baron Bigod, the potential for innovation exists. Local producers could draw inspiration from Crickmore’s success by experimenting with a variety of non-traditional cheeses. Creating local versions of Gorgonzola dolce, Epoisses, Halloumi, Burrata, Roquefort, Comte, and Feta could fulfil the growing demand for exotic flavours and textures.
Norfolk chefs have expressed interest in featuring an all-Norfolk cheeseboard but remain cautious about the potential monotony such a selection might present. This presents an opportunity for regional producers to diversify and elevate their offerings, potentially drawing both local and national attention.
Jonny Crickmore’s journey with Fen Farm Dairy underscores the possibilities that arise when cheesemakers dare to innovate. His trailblazing efforts suggest that with determination and creativity, Norfolk’s producers, too, can carve out a niche in the competitive cheese market, offering products that stand toe-to-toe with their international counterparts.
As Norfolk’s gourmet scene continues to develop, there lies a tantalising prospect for the county’s cheesemakers to build upon Crickmore’s legacy, transforming British cheese from conventional to captivating, and from local secret to global star.
